Hoddles Creek Estate Syberia Chardonnay 2018

“Syberia is one of the most umami of all Australian Chardonnay wines, which perhaps makes it a more polarising style. I lean more towards that style, rather than sweety noms, though I also don’t like wines that taste too much like cheese. And you think you’re confused? My head is a jungle. Franco, not trying to lead the witness, no doubt, says on the trade label that this is “In my Top 3 Chardonnay’s that I’ve made”. Franco is, of course, a popular name for dictators. Green olives, preserved lemon, aniseed, roast chicken, lime and maybe green melon rind, though distinctly non-fruity, you’d have to say. It’s smooth and glossy, but flinty and firm, a pithy bitterness running through it, which cinches it in so nicely, and a finish that grips and runs very long. It’s not your average Chardonnay, which is why it’s so good. 96pts.”

Gary Walsh, The Wine Front