This week we’re revisiting an absolute gem from Domaine des Cognettes in what is almost certainly not a sentence that is said everyday, the chance to drink a 5 year old white wine grown in the Clisson cru of Muscadet that has spent 12 months in Tuscan amphora, unfined, unfiltered, and no additives whatsoever, is incredibly exciting.
Vincent and Stephane farm 25 hectares of vines organically in the Loire Valley region. They produce a number of wines under Muscadet Sevre et Maine Sur Lie and Clisson cru classification. These wines are often incredibly fresh with great drive and tension, superb expression of the Clisson style.
Due to the minimal intervention approach of the Cognetterra wines produced by the Domaine the simple fall under the Vin de France classification.
First produced in 2014, the Cognetterra Gwenn falls under the ‘unusual cuvees of Cognettes’. 100% Melon de Bourgogne of 55 year old organic vines, this wine is made in 500l Tuscan terracotta jars, an ode to the ancient winemaking technique of the Romans, Egyptians, Greeks, and Georgians. This allows a slow oxidization whilst maintaining freshness and acidity.
The wines spends a year in these terracotta jars before being bottled without fining, filtration, or any additions including sulphur.
So now, 5 years down the track how does it look?
An interestingly hazy white reminiscent of lemon squash upon pouring. Such a vibrant acidity peeking through the nose. There's a refreshing saline aroma with notes of walnuts and freshly cut grass. It takes a while to unravel but the refreshing acidity grows and grows.
On the palate it's still surprisingly youthful, white grapefruit, lemon zest, straw-like flavours, the oxidization is really well integrated, more of the baked walnut character, and a lightning like acid line. Almost a chewy like citrus element in this wine that goes and goes.
Utterly moreish heading through to the finish, giving a thirst-quenching sensation. Such an intriguing wine with a house lemonade style feel. Extremely interesting to see the boundaries of Melon de Bourgogne pushed to such extremes.
This wine is in such a great spot at the moment, a welcome surprise on this weeks tasting bench. If we can resist we'll put a few bottles away to see what another 5 years lends to this stunner.
$39.95 each or $32.36 in a members mixed 6 pack